Panormitis was such a secure anchorage with all round protection that it was a bit of a shock to have to start thinking about where to go and anchorage protection when we got there, especially as the weather can turn quickly at this time of year. However we left our secure space in 10 knots of wind which soon dropped to zero, and then came back up to 20 knots. We arrived in Tilos via an exciting close reach with both genoa and main reefed, Kerensa sails really well in strong conditions.The bay was very sheltered and we moored alongside in a small town harbour. Checking in with port police was very easy and friendly despite them telling us we had the wrong paperwork. This was confirmed not to be the case the following day and was just a case of Greek admin not knowing what each hand is doing.
Tilos Town Harbour
Tilos, like everywhere at the moment, was very quiet with only a mini market, cafe and one restaurant open. The people were really friendly and helpful though, even stopping their cars to see if we had somewhere to stay. (I'm sure they had vacant places for us if we hadn't!) The town wasn't much to speak of, but a long walk along the seafront and up into the hills around the bay was lovely. Apparently Tilos is renowned for its walks and we can see why. It's also renowned for its thyme, which was growing everywhere, and award winning honey.
Tilos walks
On the second day a catamaran anchored in the bay, the first boat we have seen, and a French Canadian couple motored over. We met them in the restaurant later for dinner which became a slightly surreal experience. The restaurant was a grill, with a malfunctioning extraction system so you can imagine the scene, smokey and smelly! The food was great but halfway through the Canadians suddenly got up, said goodbye and left with no explanation. Perhaps they didn't like us but we listened politely to their ranting about Trumps tarrifs on their granite quarrying business for most of the meal so........
Tilos scenery
We left Tilos and sailed, upwind, to Kadamena on Kos island. Finally we found a bit more life, but only a little. Kadamena was definitely a party town with no parties going on at this time of year. A breezy night on anchor the first night was followed by a quieter night the next and then we sailed to Kos town.
Sailing to Kos, first no shirt day!
Kos was lovely, again we chose to anchor rather than go into the marina but we had a sheltered spot. We manged to get gas, petrol for the dinghy and a new mooring line in the town, but not the new genoa sheet we wanted. Amanda picked up a pair of foul weather salopettes in the marina shop, but Nigels bargaining skills didn't result in a good enough price for a foul weather jacket for him.
Plane tree of Hippocrates
Sadly we could not get into Kos castle, built by the Knights Hospitaliers in the 1400's, but close to the entrance is the Plane tree of Hippocrates. This is supposed to be where Hippocrates held his teachings for students. Kos is a port of entry (and exit) for Greece so we may be back on our return path to Turkey.
We are still heading north up the Dedocanse islands, next planned stop is Kalymnos.
