We stayed longer than planned in Syracusa, partly due to the weather and partly due to a wish to explore the area a bit more. The latter was spoilt a bit by the reputation that Syracusa has for theft of, and from, dinghies and outboards. Although we were well locked up each time we left the rib, the nagging thought of returning to a vacant bit of water was persistant. It must be a major pain to lose a dinghy as you can't get back to the boat to even think about sorting out insurance and replacement.
We visited the Greek and Roman amphitheatres, complete with gardens nearby created from the prison area where rock for the construction was quarried all those years ago. We also walked to the fort on the end of the headland. Both of which were a worthwhile trip. Archimedes tomb is in the prison gardens but sadly we only discovered that after we had left, it wasn't obvious.
Greek and Roman Amphitheatres
The rest of Syracusa could only be described as 'shabby chic', nice architecture but a bit run down. We were keeping our eyes out for a weather window, but also on progress of the Middle Sea Race. This is a yacht race starting and finishing in Malta with the course being around Sicily, the nearby islands and Lampedusa. We had friends we met in the summer competing and so were keen to see them sail past Syracusa. We were late to see the start but hoped to sail south to Malta as the fleet sailed north, unfortunately heavy rain, wind and thunderstorms kept us in Syracusa bay and delayed our departure by 24 hrs.
We eventually left, a bit early in the day for a dawn arrival in Malta, with light winds. We travelled deliberately slowly, not wanting to arrive in the dark and eventually the wind gave out leading us to motor through the night. A night-time visit by Maltas resident bottlenose dolphins helped Nigel stay awake and, although they were difficult to see, he could hear them breathing as they surfaced next to the boat, the Milky Way providing just enough light to see the broken water and dark shapes. We timed our arrival pretty well, having only 30mins to kill before dawn, and circled the entrance to Grand Harbour before the sun rose enough for us to see our way in.
Dawn arrival into Valletta
There is only one anchorage in Grand Harbour and it is small, constrained by a wreck and room for only 5 boats. We luckily found a spot. Its very well protected and with a decent dinghy its possible to get across the bay to explore Valletta. We were able to walk across to the Middle Sea Finish line and watch several boats and our friends cross the line.
Our friends on Grace of Sydney cross the line
The boat just ahead of them lost its mast just 200m from the finish line as we watched, they must have been devastated. Just after we got back to our little bay they were towed in next to us and we were able to watch them get sorted out before motoring off to their marina berth. The speed with which they got the mast strapped to the side of the boat and all lines strapped up was impressive. It looked like they had done it before.........!
We found out later that the whole shroud chainplate had pulled out through the deck.
With Amanda's youngest and Girlfriend due to visit we have stayed in the anchorage, (protecting our spot!) for a week. When they arrive we will be exploring Maltas coastline, and repeating the following week when the eldest arrives also with girlfriend and 9 month old son!