We stayed in Marmaros for a few days and got a huge dose of reality as we were struck with thunder, lightning and heavy rain as we returned from a walk inland. This continued, non stop, for 36 hrs and we remained below for the whole time. During the night we didnt think the lightning was hitting the ground but there was a huge bang very close to us which didn't settle our nerves! We slept as best we could but were pretty tired in the morning.
Brown tide line from the rains flushing into the sea
When the rain abated we ventured on deck, the water in the bay was deep brown, stained by all the mud and detritus washed down the hills. Being a southerly wind, and despite the rain, the boat was covered in sand and looked decidedly yellow and needed a good clean. This was the day to leave and we headed south to Kalamoti on the southern end of the island for one night in prep for our crossing to Andros. Anchored in a huge and very shallow bay we felt very safe, yet at 2am the anchor alarm went off. By the time we shot out of bed Nigel actually watched the track on the screen as we "drifted" 15m back into our safe zone, even though we did nothing. It seems that he watched an example of gps position accuracy drift. There have been several reports of this phenomenon in this area, all close to Turkey.
We had a reach in 20 knts of wind to Andros, with both Genoa and main reefed. The waves were large and we were enjoying the sail about 20 miles offshore when odd things started to occur....... Firstly we sailed past a sheep, dead of course. We suspect it was a casualty of the rain storms in the area, several islands had bad flooding. Secondly, shortly after that sighting we called starboard on a submarine! Not literally of course but we were on a collision course and he did alter course to pass within 300m of us, quite a sight! He wasn't transmitting on AIS and flying no flags so we are none the wiser as to nationality. After that professional encounter we experienced an unprofessional one, a cargo ship steaming across our path on a collision course which took no action at all to alter course and we had to head up to pass 0.5nm behind. We wouldnt want to name and shame MSC Hannah! This episode reminded us of the many we came across when sailing from Spain to Tunisia that did the same, often with no ais signal or radio response. Remember "might is right" on the sea at the end of the day!
Unknown sub crosses our stern
We arrived in Andros, part of the Cyclades islands, in the delightful town of Korthi and we immediately found signs of life, something that has been rare in most of the Dedocanese islands. It's been great to meet and chat to a few people, it's still relatively quiet though and we think this will be a lovely place in the summer months. We have taken advantage of a choice of open Tavernas to eat out most nights and were tipped off by some bar staff to take a walk to see "The Old Lady". This is a rock stack in the next bay, with a legend that a local lady and her child tricked the Greeks to open the castle gates to help her, as they did so Turkish pirates stormed the Castle. Later, full of remorse she jumped off the rock stack to her death. It certainly was a very pretty and secluded bay with a small beach accessed by a steep path. We had our first swim of the year there for which we may or may not have had swimsuits on for.
The Old Lady and our first swim this year
There have been few boat jobs this week except for rerouting our reefing lines, en route to Andros we discovered that once the first reef was in we couldn't take up the slack line for the second reef. Of course this meant we couldn't get the second reef on if it was needed. Thankfully it wasn't but the morning after arriving we hoisted the main while on anchor and routed the lines again. They must have been put back incorrectly after we had the mast out.
We have never heard of Swans, Geese and Ducks being at home on the sea but there are plenty here, living happily with the stray cats. Someone is putting fresh water out for them to drink and we see a flock of Geese swimming to their home on the rocks each evening and back to the harbour area each morning.
We are in no rush to leave this delightful town but there are strong Northerly winds coming and we have to decide if we are in the right place or not for when they arrive. A decision to be made shortly. In the meantime we have had another tip about a beautiful village 30mins walk away so that's tomorrow's plan.
